Yep. I dabble in recruiting related stuff at conferences and expos for our company occasionally and I usually meet one or two young people that get the “get in contact!” remark on the protocol sheet. They’re out there, they’re just rare.

People around here usually have trailers behind their normal cars for that. Works fine.

The severity of the problem depends on external factors:

• do you live in a dry and salt-free environment? No problem.
• did the maker of your car implement disc wiping as a precaution? No problem.
• did the maker of your car implement intermittent brake blending during recuperation? No problem.
• is your car less driven in wet and salty conditions and then always store in a dry, warm garage? No problem.
• does your car have drumsin the rear and near-undersized discs in the front? Less of a problem.

I drive an electric vehicle and the unfortunate reality is, that brakes that are large enough for an emergency stop get underutilized during everyday, regenerative braking. So they rust.

My solution is: Every time I get back to our village in wet weather, I accelerate hard on the last long straight and brake hard to almost a standstill once. No more brake trouble, all four rotors squeaky clean, but any measuring device would write me up as the biggest idiot on the roads out there.

That is too general of a statement. I have three EVs in my family, none of them do any temp condition of the battery just by being plugged in. However, EVCC turns off the wallbox when they reach 75% SoC and there is no appointment that day in our shared calendar. Sitting at high SoCs kills batteries, especially in warm climates.

I usually buy refurbished Thinkpads with a year of warranty. There are at least two resellers for those in Germany that I know of, AfB and Lapstore.

Eh - YT music (premium) offers 256kB-ish Opus now. That’s on par with 320kBps MP3.

YT Music Premium delivers 256kBit/s Opus now, Deezer delivers FLAC.

🤷sri

If you want a supported version for your phone then yes, it’s paid for. You can create a free build yourself though.

We had that with Sailfish OS.

Yep. And in my case, the backup battery is connected to another DC input on the inverter and the inverter pretty much manages everything. As I understand the documentation, there is no other way to use solar AND a battery at the same time as a power source for islanding. Switching over manually with a short disruption in-between is always possible of course, as is charging an AC coupled battery from an islanding solar inverter.

@Pretzilla@lemmy.world

An engineer dabbling in such things explained to me, that it is hard enough to regulate a small island network frequency and voltage-wise from a single point. Reacting to whatever another source (something like another solar inverter out in the garden with a few panels of its own, e.g.) in the same island grid does could easily lead to potentially destructive oscillations in the regulation circuit. Large grids have “mass” - literally, because large generators and electric motors are spinning at whatever speed they are spinning in whatever phase they are in. So small disturbances from regulating too quickly or a little wrong just disappear into that. The same doesn’t go for a small island grid, so at Fronius they have decided to put 52Hz on the grid which by standard prevents other sources from syncing. Electric utilities do the same when they have to power small villages from diesel generators temporarily - 52Hz and the house mounted solar generators don’t sync.

That sentence does not make any sense whatsoever. SATA and SAS are hot pluggable as well.

Not necessarily. While running parallel to the grid or needs to sync to it of course, but when running in island mode it can do whatever it feels like - if it supports that. My Fronius runs at 52Hz e.g. to keep other generators in the island from starting up.

During the gold rush, shovel manufacturers had a steady income.

Yep. But also you need to run lead acid in a smaller charge window so you need more of them and when running out of space more panels might not be feasible - many variables in the whole thing, I don’t think there’s a universal answer, one can’t really get around setting up a small spreadsheet.

Of course it’s relevant. My LiFePos reach about 92% efficiency. Losing 12% of energy in the storage process or not losing them is a big difference.

Lead acid is pretty inefficient though, something like 80% iirc.

I’ve got some 20-ish kWh LiFePo in the basement. The internal temperature barely reacts to a forgotten window in a cold winter night. The whole thing is just many kilograms of thermal mass. Are you sure the battery temp was your problem?